Whale Watching in Baja

January 2006

There are three places in Baja California where the California Gray Whales gather from January through March; Laguna Ojo de Liebre (Scammon's Lagoon), Laguna de Saint Ignacio, and Magdalena Bay.  These three places are the end of a 3000 mile migration from the Bering Sea.  All three areas are protected both environmentally and legally.  The areas are all small, shallow, and have only narrow passes to the Pacific.  These are necessary characteristics for gray whale spawning grounds.  The new-born whales cannot swim and would drown in rough seas.  the baby whales also need time to grow the layer of fat needed to survive in the cold Arctic waters. 

We visited two of the spawning grounds; Magdalena Bay (sometimes called Mag Bay) and Scammon's Lagoon.

The Mag Bay trip was an adventure in itself.  We camped in Ciudad Constitucion and drove to San Carlos the next morning.  When we got there, we saw a small office advertising whale watching tours.  We were told that we could leave right away if we paid for the whole boat or we could wait awhile until another couple arrived and split the cost.  The wait was only about half an hour and then we were ready to go.  We followed the tour guide through town toward the bay.  On the way we stopped at a garage where they were working on a boat; mounting and testing the outboaed motor.  This took about another half hour but now we were ready to go.  We followed the guide on to the bay where we got into another boat' not the one we waited to be set up.  But couldn't leave right away.  It seems that another couple was on the way and would arrive in a few minutes.  The "few" minutes turned out to be about thirty.  Now we finally left but with a boat captain that spoke no English.  In three hours, we saw only this one whale. 

The return trip was even more exciting.  We ran out of gas and had to borow some from another boat.  Because of the delays, the tide went out before we got back and the place we left from was now a quarter mile wide mudflat.  We were landed at another dock and had to be driven back to our vehicles.

Here is another picture of the whale shown above.  We did get fairly close.

Whenever anyone found a whale, all the other nearby boats gathered round.  In case you hadn't noticed, even this very young whale is much larger than the boats around her.  Fortunately, the whale seem to be very calm and not at all disturbed by all the activity around them.

These seals found the perfect place for a little snooze in the sun.  Unfortunately, too many of them found this buoy at the same time.  While we were watching, another seal decided this was a good idea and came aboard.  When one more came on, one was pushed off the other side and, once again, equilibrium was established.

Our trip on Scammon's Lagoon was much more of a positive adventure.  The tour office is next door to the campground.  They picked us up there on time and took us to the boat.  The boat was ready to leave as soon as we got on board.  It didn't run out of gas and returned us to the dock on time where the car was waiting to take us home. A government report showed there was an estimated 800 whales in the lagoon and I believe it.  We saw whales everywhere we went; like this momma whale.

Here is momma with her baby right alongside.

The whales remain in Baja until sometime in April and then begin the 3000 mile trek home.  The whole cycle is then repeated the following October. 

I am very glad we took the tour; at least, I'm glad we took the second one.  It is fascinating to see animals so large and up so close.  But I probably won't do it again.  The boat trip is not a comfortable one.  It is very cold on the water and even a slight swell makes for a rough ride when those small boats (called pangas) speed up to about 10 knots.